Double weave
The pattern construction for my Chanel jacket is a double weave. Module 3 of the vocational training in shaft weaving is only about double weave.
Double weaving is fascinating and it is almost magical how you can weave in multiple layers and, for example, unfold the fabric to double its width when it comes off the loom.
Here, the double weave gives an extra dimension and texture to the fabric.
The bottom layer is a 2-2 kipper, referencing Chanel’s fascination with British tweed. The layer is woven in a single-ply wool from England and the pattern is inspired by tartan patterns, which are traditionally symmetrical. Here the pattern is repeated, but the symmetry is absent and challenges the eye (and the one who weaves it…)
The top layer is a grid of glossy silk bouclé, which refers to the wool bouclé Chanel often used for her jackets. Here, the grid lies like a canvas weave on top of the wool, creating a beautiful contrast.
The binding threads are placed around the bouclé intersection, but also in the floats, so that the floats are so short that there is no risk of getting caught. The binding threads are placed offset, so that they are almost invisible.
The recipe
The construction of the double weave is complicated and may require a bit of mathematical sense and systematicity.
You may be wondering how this double weave is constructed, and I would like to share that with you. That is why I am sharing my pattern with you, but there are many hours of work behind it, so I expect you to use it with care. Thank you